Boa Constrictor Imperator
BCI Boa (aka Colombian Red Tail Boa)
The Colombian boa constrictor is the most widely kept boa constrictor in the pet industry (there are nine accepted subspecies of Boa constrictor, and many localities of some subspecies). Other common names include the common boa and red-tailed boa, although the true red-tailed boa is Boa constrictor constrictor, which is larger and found in countries including Suriname, Guyana, Peru and Brazil. There may be B. c. constrictor in southeastern Colombia, but these are rarely seen in the reptile world. Colombian boas have become popular due to being docile and having more “personality,” in that they seem to be more curious about their surroundings than some other snakes. Colombian boa constrictors make great pets, and they are available in a vast array of appealing color and pattern morphs. Proper care can be provided even by beginner hobbyists, but due to their potentially large size and lengthy life span, boas are best suited for moderate- and advanced-level keepers. With reptile health and wellness prioritized.
Boa Constrictor Life Span
Boas are very long-lived reptiles. There are documented cases of captive boas living longer than 40 years; however, the average captive life span is 20 to 30 years. Please consider this carefully before bringing a boa home.
Boa Constrictor Size
Female Colombian boa constrictors may reach 10 feet in length, though this is rare for B. c. imperator, and the average adult size for females is usually 6 to 8 feet. Males are smaller, usually 5 to 7 feet in length. Some Central American boa constrictors remain much smaller—if you would like a smaller boa constrictor, look into Central American locality types, such as those from Belize, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Smaller subspecies include Boa c. longicauda and B. c. sabogae, though keep in mind that these localities and subspecies have not been bred in captivity as long as the Colombian boa, so they may not be as docile and could require extra attention to tame them down.
Boa Constrictor Handling and Temperament
Boa constrictors are usually very docile and tolerate handling very well. They often seem to enjoy being held and will seek out an area on your arm or shoulders and enjoy your body warmth. They may crawl around for a few minutes before hunkering down to grab some heat.
If your boa seems to have a bad attitude, check its enclosure temperatures, humidity levels and overall husbandry and correct any mistakes. Most boas calm quickly after repeated sessions of being handled.
The boa constrictor makes a great pet for reptile hobbyists of all levels, and it remains a cornerstone in the reptile community. Personally, I believe boa constrictors are as good as it gets in the snake world and they make great educational animals.
Boa Constrictor Housing
Many caging options are available for boa constrictors. Reptile-specific plastic enclosures made from high-quality plastics that maintain proper humidity are best suited for boas over anything else. A rack system is something to consider should you advance into having many boas living with you. Custom enclosures are another option. We have found PVC and Sterlite tub’s to be the most superior types of housing for boas. We keep younger smaller ones in tubs until they are large enough to be housed in a animal plastics T8 enclosure for the rest of they’re adulthood. We advise that glass aquariums are never used for boas or any snake as they do not hold proper temperature, nor proper humidity. Aside from this glass aquariums do not provide suitable ventilation for boas which can lead to issues such as but not limited to respiratory infections, or mouth rot. We have also found that due to poor ventilation boas have a tendency to rub they’re faces on the top screens of aquariums causing injury to themselves. Overall it is not worth the risk of the animals health so please avoid this as an enclosure for your boa!
Young boa constrictors have simple needs; a large, beautifully decorated cage is not the best choice for them. While a new boa is acclimating, simple housing is preferred, and the enclosure should be prepared prior to your new boa’s arrival home. An appropriate first cage for a baby boa would be no larger than 30 inches long by 12 inches wide, in which it will feel very secure.
Naturally, as the young boa grows, a larger cage will be required. Boa constrictors are terrestrial and floor space is more important than height. Young boas may climb but do so much less as they grow. Typical full-grown adult boas should be housed in cages no smaller than 4 feet long by 2 feet wide (with larger-than-average snakes in larger enclosures). As a general rule we will measure both small sides of the enclosure and one long side and if your snakes length does not exceed the length of all 3 walls it is adequate.
A hide box/shelter should be provided, which will allow the boa to feel safe and secure. There are many commercially manufactured types available for snake habitat products. For young boas a plastic snake hide box from Pangea Reptiles is the best choice, but be sure to choose a appropriate size. For adults we sometimes will offer large carboard boxes as hides but find that the ap t8 enclosures offer enough security for full grown adults. Offer two hides, one on the warm side of the enclosure and one on the cool side. A stressed baby boa may stay on one side of the cage if only one hide is provided, which may discourage the snake from thermoregulating properly.
You may also provide plastic plants and other structures that are easy to thoroughly clean. We find that most pet store marketed naturalistic decorations are either very hard to clean or have sharp edges so be sure to take care and time when selecting decorations for your pets.
Boa Constrictor Lighting and Temperature
Boas control their body temperature through thermoregulation, and the cage should have a warm side and a cool side. This is very important! Do not place the heat source in the center of the cage, place it at one end. Then if the boa gets too warm, it will move toward the cooler side, and if it is too cool, it will move to the warmer side. That’s thermoregulation!
The temperatures in the cool end your boa cage should not drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The warm side should be 85 degrees, with a hot spot of 90 degrees provided by an under-cage heating device that will provide “belly heat.” Boa constrictors greatly prefer this, and it is more effective and safer for them than other lighting such as heat lamps/bulbs. In our opinion heat lamps/bulbs should never be used as they dry out the snake and cause poor shedding and dehydration and, in some cases, burns. We also would like to note that infrared lighting has been known to cause permanent blindness in a lot of reptiles including snakes, therefor colored lighting of any kind should never be used either. Belly heat alone should be most efficient with the proper enclosure and husbandry.
Belly heat can be provided using various devices. Under-tank heaters are the most readily available, such as our personal favorite THG heat tape (also available through Pangea reptiles). We tend to avoid Zilla and Zoomed heat pads, as we have found they often malfunction or do not hold proper temperature. Any heating device should be controlled with a proportional thermostat or rheostat, such as a Herpstat controller or a ON/OFF thermostat. Heat sources can get too hot for some enclosures, and they must be regulated not just for the boa’s safety, but yours, too. When using any heat source, you must always have a thermostat.
A low-wattage fluorescent bulb can be used to provide a photoperiod (day/night cycle) and to better observe your boa. Full-spectrum bulbs with UVB like the Solar Glo all in one reptile lamp, may provide physical and physiological benefits to boas, but this has not been proven. UVB lighting is not needed for the proper care of boas, and the vast majority of boa keepers do not use it. Still, it won’t harm your boa, so feel free to provide it just in case there is some benefit.
Boa Constrictor Snake Substrate
Boas can be kept on several types of substrate, but we find any loose particle substrate such as, eco earth, reptichip, aspen, etc. is best to avoid completely due to risk of impaction when ingested during regular feedings. Newspaper, white or brown butcher/wrapping paper, and cage carpet are the most often used substrates. It is important to regularly change your boas bedding as it defecates, boas are large and ours tend to slither into they’re feces when left for more than a few hours (which really sucks because then you’re dealing with a poopy huge snake). We check our enclosures daily for any defecation and change the bedding each time they defecate, or as needed.
For cleaning your boa’s enclosure, we recommend either a veterinary disinfectant such as F10 properly diluted(fallow instructions on bottle carefully) or a 10% or 10/100 bleach water solution sprayed into the empty cage and whipped away until dry then aired our for 10-15 to be the best methods.
Boa Constrictor Water and Humidity
A water bowl is a necessity. This allows your boa a place to drink and helps provide the proper humidity for your boa. The humidity in the cage should be 60 to 70 percent; use a hygrometer (humidity gauge) to track the percentage.
Water must always be clean and should be changed as needed and the bowl cleaned. Some boa constrictors will defecate or urinate in the water, which must be cleaned immediately if this occurs. Be sure to scrub and rinse the bowl, using an antibacterial dish soap and hot water or a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and clean the water bowl weekly. Disposable forms of water bowls, such as deli cups, are another option but we find the snakes often tip these over. Better options are ceramic bowls, or large plastic tubs.
Young boas will often soak before or during a shed cycle. This aids in shedding their skin, but usually occurs only when proper cage humidity is not being met. A boa that is constantly in the water bowl usually indicates the humidity is too low, the temperature is too high, or the boa has mites.
After a shed, be sure to check the tip of your boa’s tail. Young boas will sometimes retain a small piece of shed skin there. If caught soon after the shed, this old skin is usually easy to remove by gently massaging the skin off but not pulling it off. Always be careful when attempting this. If it’s sticking, usually a dip in warm water will make removal easy. This skin retention does not necessarily mean you have husbandry issues. Sometimes the skin simply tears before the shed is removed completely. If you notice retained skin on other areas of your boa’s body, you may need to adjust the humidity levels.
Shedding issues are usually a result of insufficient humidity. A soak or two during the shed cycle will greatly help if you are experiencing low-humidity issues. Place a quarter inch of warm water in an appropriately sized plastic container and place your boa inside with a secure lid in place. Then place the container in your boa’s cage, positioned so the inside of the container has a warm side and cool side. This will keep the water warm and the humidity high. Do not place it directly over the belly heat or under a basking bulb. A few holes in the lid or sides of the container will provide ventilation. Soak your boa in the container for up to an hour (two hours if you’re combating a particularly tough shed) and repeat as necessary. Be sure to check on your boa regularly, as they will often defecate while soaking. Change the water and clean the container if this occurs. At end of the shed cycle, remove the water and place a small towel in the container so your boa can rub on it to help shed its old skin. If your container doesn’t fit inside the cage you may alternatively place a separate regulated heat source under your container for the soaking time.
Boa Constrictor Food
It is very important to allow your new boa to acclimate to its new surroundings before feeding. Never attempt to feed a new boa for at least five days after you bring it home. I assure you your new boa will be fine without food during this time. If you feed it too soon, while it may still be stressed from the move to your home, the snake may regurgitate. If this occurs, be sure your temperatures are correct, and do not attempt to feed the boa again for two weeks. The most common causes of regurgitation are improper temperature and stress from being handled, so be sure you provide proper cage temperatures and do not excessively handle boas after meals.
Never feed a new boa constrictor a meal that is larger than the snake’s mid-body girth. It should never exhibit a bulge after eating. Especially in young boas, a meal that is too large may lead to regurgitation. An established adult boa will handle a meal resulting in a small bulge just fine.
Pet boa constrictors should be fed only quality rats. They need no additional food or supplementation. Be sure you buy your rodents from a good source to prevent disease and mites. Boas 2 years old and younger should be fed one appropriately sized rodent every seven to 10 days. Excessive feeding may lead to regurgitation, improper growth, and even premature death. Once boas near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed monthly meals. It is okay to feed your boa more or less often but be sure to monitor weight, so the boa does not become obese or underweight. A boa’s body should look squared and very muscular if your boa is round and does not have adequate muscle tone it is a good idea to cut back your feeding regimen.
Most boa constrictors available as pets will be eating frozen/thawed prey. If you purchase one that is eating live rodents, it will often take frozen/thawed prey that is presented from a pair of tongs. Pre-killed rodents are always best, whether they are frozen/thawed or freshly killed, because live rodents can harm your boa. If your snake does not kill its prey (boas will not eat if they are not hungry or are kept under improper conditions), the rodent may bite or even kill your boa. Even if the boa does constrict its prey, the rodent may bite before it is killed. Never leave your boa unattended with live rodents. And only feed live rodent’s if necessary, as the risks are unnecessary to take with most boas.
Care sheet provided by Fantastic Beast’s Exotic Rescue.
Comments